Tip:  Don't make the common mistake of waiting until the night before the ride to check your bike. The local shop will be closed and unable to help you with parts or service, and you won't be able to take a proper test ride to make sure everything's right. Schedule this maintenance several days before the event.
 
Tools & Materials
 
I'm assuming you'll be riding your best road bike and that you keep it in good shape. If so, you'll need only a few items:

• allen wrenches from 2 to 8 mm (the latter is needed to tighten certain clipless pedals)
• T25 Torx screwdriver if you have Torx chainring bolts
• chain lube
• cassette lockring tool and large adjustable wrench
• bike polish (or my favorite, Lemon Pledge spray furniture wax)
• rubbing alcohol (isopropyl)
• rags

Procedure
 
It's always the one thing you didn't check that fails! So check everything visually and with the proper tool.
 
(1)  Clean the frame, fork and components. Use a soft rag and bike polish. As you clean, carefully inspect all tube intersections, the area where the seatpost enters the frame, and the fork and frame dropouts. Also inspect the rims at each spoke hole. You're looking for cracks in all of these places.
 
If the rim sidewalls and brake pads need cleaning, do it with isopropyl alcohol. Keep polish away from these parts.
 
Tip:  Turn the bike upside-down and clean gunk from the bottom bracket cable guides. When they're clogged or coated with sticky sports drink, cable drag will impair shifting.
 
(2)  Tighten every bolt on the bike (except the tiny ones that determine front and rear derailleur adjustment). Work systematically from top to bottom so you don't miss one. Turn bolts clockwise just enough to test tightness. Do not overtighten! Don't forget the oft-overlooked brake lever fixing bolts. For an indexed brake/shift lever it's on the side under the rubber hood. For a traditional lever it's dead center in the opening when you pull the lever handle down.
 
Tip:  If you squeeze the brake lever firmly while checking the bolt that attaches the caliper to the frame, the caliper won't move off center.
 
(3)  Check the cassette. The cogs can loosen, often causing rattling when pedaling. To tell, put a finger on the top cog and another on a smaller one and try to move them. If there's play, remove the wheel, remove the quick-release skewer and tighten the cassette by turning its lockring clockwise.
 
(4)  Inspect wheels and tires. Make sure the wheels are fully in the dropouts, centered in the frame and fork, and the quick releases are closed tight. Then spin the wheels and look where the rims pass the brake pads. Wobbles mean truing is needed. Grasp each wheel at the rim and push and pull sideways. Play means the bearings need adjustment. Check the tires for wear and cuts, and remove anything stuck in the tread.
 
Tip:  Rear tires wear much faster than fronts. If the rear is shot, move the front tire to the rear wheel and put the new tire on the front. This way, your best tire will be on the wheel that has the most to do with bike control.
 
(5)  Check the cables. Cables can fray and break. This usually happens inside a lever or at a contact point such as under the bottom bracket. A fraying gear cable will often cause shifting hesitation or a rough feel, so if things are working fine you're probably okay. Still, it's good to squeeze each lever so you can look inside for any cable issues. Also check for fraying wherever cables go in or out of guides or stops.
 
Tip:  Drip or squirt lube on cables where they run through a bottom bracket guide. This will prevent corrosion and keep them sliding smoothly. Wipe off excess lube so it won't attract grit.
 
(6)  Check the chain. First backpedal slowly by hand to look for stiff links as the chain snakes through the derailleur pulleys. If you spot a hiccup, try working lube into the link to free it. Look closely at each plate and pin on both sides of the chain. It takes only a couple of minutes and you could spot a problem that would ruin your ride. Breaking a chain is no fun.
 
Tip:  A dry chain makes pedaling a lot more difficult. If in doubt, apply lube -- and do it at a time when you won't be riding for at least 12 hours. This way, the lubrication can penetrate inside and partially dry outside.
 
(7)  Take a test ride. Shift through all the gears several times. Brake firmly using each lever. Stand on a climb for a minute. Everything should work smoothly and quietly.
 
OK? Now rest and relax, having confidence that your bike is ready to give you a great ride on the big day.
 
Comment 


(Jim Langley has been a pro mechanic and cycling writer for 37 years. At RBR he's the author of Your Home Bicycle Workshop and moderator of the "Roadie Rap" technical forums on the PREMIUM SITE . Check his personal website at  www.jimlangley.net, his Q&A blog and updates at Twitter . Jim's streak of consecutive cycling days has reached 5,712.)

Re-Printed from http://www.roadbikerider.com. Thanks!

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